The crime scene: School cafeterias.

The killers: Saturated fats in beef burgers and cheese pizzas.

The victims: Thousands of American kids, whose daily diet contains w-a-y too much fat.

They line up, trays in hand, and go for the really good-tasting but bad-for-you stuff like meatballs and tacos piled high with beef and cheese. Hot dogs are eagerly devoured, while carrot sticks grow limp on the plate, only to be tossed in the trash.

Here in the bowels of the school cafeteria, there is no father offering bribes of ice cream, if we just take one more bite of squash; no mother threatening early bedtime or endless chores if one fails to finish one's bluefish with the lovely mustard sauce.

Is that Tofu I Taste?

Until now, even the most conscientious cafeteria worker and school nutritionist have been able to do little else but look on in helpless despair. But with help from Uncle Sam, things have now changed – a little.

A little.

A regulatory change has now ended longstanding restrictions on the amount of soy that can be used in school lunches. Rules formerly prohibited soy from being used as anything other than a food additive, and only in amounts below 30 percent. But the new regulation drafted by the U.S. Department of Agriculture allows districts to use as much soy as they want -- however they want. "We are not so concerned that schools are going to replace meat items with soy," says Shirley Watkins, USDA undersecretary for food, nutrition and consumer services. "What it does present is an opportunity to enhance those meat products."

In other words, the new regulation gives schools the chance to cut the saturated fat in the average beef burger by adding more soy to the mix. (A typical soy burger has 3 grams of fat, compared to an average of 16 grams for an all-beef patty).

"I herald the move," says Connie Roberts, nutritionist at the Brigham & Women's Hospital in Boston. "In general, looking at the big picture, if we can get kids more towards a plant-based diet, that would be great."

Though tofu has less protein and iron than beef or poultry, its lower fat content makes it a better all-around food choice, experts say, given the risk of heart disease and other ailments linked to saturated fats.

But Will They Eat It?

Health-conscious parents have also fought to win over the taste buds, if not the hearts and minds, of young meat and dairy lovers.

"My experience is that if we tell them that it's tofu, they refuse to eat it," says Beverly A., mother of three. "But recently I got some tofu marinated in a sweet and sour sauce and they ate at least a couple of bites. The problem is the consistency of tofu, I think."

"Kids do rule at school districts around this country," agrees Watkins. "If kids know it's a soy product, then its unacceptable. But if it's side by side with an identical product, and they can't tell, then they think it's wonderful."

The challenge for schools, says Connie Roberts, is to increase the use of tofu and soy products without kids becoming suspicious.

"You have to get the child to eat it, otherwise it's a moot point."

Tofu Recipes

Tofu Nut Balls
1/2 cup cooked brown rice
1 Tbs. Tamari or soy sauce
1/2 cup ground cashews
1/2 lb. mashed tofu
1/2 cup cereal crumbs
1 to 2 Tbs. peanut butter
1 egg

In food processor, blend half the tofu, tamari or soy sauce, and 3/4 of the cooked rice to a thick paste. Mash remaining tofu with fork. Add mixture from blender with other ingredients. Form ball with hands. Refrigerate balls until ready to use, or deep fry right away.

Can be served as an appetizer with toothpicks or in tomato sauce with pasta.

Tofu Italian Casserole
1 lb. firm tofu
2 Tbs. oil
1 Tbs. minced garlic
1 small onion chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
2 tsp. oregano
1 tsp. basil
1 qt. spaghetti sauce
1/2 lb. ziti
1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated (or more to taste)

Using 1 Tbs. oil, saute garlic until soft; add green pepper and onion and cook until onion turns yellow. Set aside. In separate skillet, cook drained, mashed tofu in remaining 1 Tbs. of oil. Add all spices and continue to cook on low heat until tofu stops steaming (5-10 min.) Add one cup of sauce; simmer 5 minutes. Boil ziti until tender but not soft; rinse. In 2-qt. baking dish, layer half the cooked ziti, 1-1/2 cups of spaghetti sauce, half the tofu mixture, and half the cheese. Repeat, using all remaining cheese on top. Bake about 30 min., or until all cheese melts and sauce is bubbly.